Thursday, January 14, 2010

Salud and Magic Chrome Plated on the Pear

Last Tuesday, Brent and I busted out for a long climb out on the Pear, up at Lumpy. The weather was supposed to be great, at least for January. 50 deg, sunny and just a touch of wind. Sounds perfect!

The classic route on the Pear is a route has the strange name of Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe. It is 5 pitches long but most people only do the first two pitches and then walk off on a huge ledge to the left. Way back in 2002 (I think) I did the first two pitches with Molly and Mike. In fact, here is a pic from way back when. Whew, look at how short my hair is!

The last November, Brent and I did the first two pitches again, this time a different way. It was about time to finish this route and do the final three pitches to the top. Since we had done the first two pitches we opted for a different route to start with. It landed on the same ledge as Magic Chrome did so we would just link up with it there. This alternate start is called Salud and goes at about 5.8. This route starts on a ledge that the guide book says you get to by an easy 3rd class scramble. Well, it is probably mellow without snow but with snow, it is pretty scary! It's funny how the approach can often be scarier than the climb itself. Here is Brent negotiating the worst of it.

This scary snow climb in tennies is followed by tunneling under boulder, complete with ice and snow.

Finally, it was time to climb! I struck out on the first pitch which was a mixture of bolts and gear. Wow, it was a really nice climb. Run out in the easy spots but gear just where you needed it. I should note that this what my first climb in my new shoes, TC Pro's. I was not sure how they would work so I ended up bringing my old trusty 5.10's along also. In fact, I chickened out and wore my 5.10's up the first pitch. I sure did not want to find out that the new ones were not that great on a run out 5.8 slab climb! Here is a shot looking down towards Brent on the first pitch.

And Brent pulling up onto the belay

Me at the belay. By the way, you can read about my little green pack here


Well, as usual, I forgot to take any more pics until Brent grabbed the camera when we were on the summit. The route was great. Most of the pitches were pretty easy with one last semi-hard section on the last pitch (5.7). Here are a collection of summit shots. Oh, and the TC Pro's are SICK. I have not climbed in LaSportiva rubber in a long time. These puppies stuck like velcro to the rock. Very pleased with them

The rap off the summit was this cool drop into a corridor behind the pear. This looks like a great spot for some summer climbing.

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